Ancestry Exposed: Ancient Roman Pizza & The Italian Takeover

Did ancient Romans truly enjoy a slice of pizza as we know it today, complete with bubbling mozzarella and a rich tomato sauce? The answer, like many complex culinary histories, is far more nuanced than a simple yes or no. When we envision pizza, we conjure images of distinct Italian flavors and textures. Yet, the remarkable journey of this global icon, from humble antecedents to its present-day glory, is a multi-stage recipe spanning millennia. Join us as we journey back to ancient Rome, unraveling centuries of culinary evolution to discern what truly separates a Roman flatbread from the Neapolitan masterpiece we’ve come to adore. By the end, you’ll understand why pizza’s story is richer and more surprising than you might think. Just recently, archaeologists in Pompeii uncovered a fresco depicting a flatbread adorned with fruits and a form of spiced cheese spread, eerily resembling an ancient, tomato-less pizza, reminding us that the concept of topped flatbreads is indeed ancient. Ever wondered about a wider “Ancient Roman meal”? Check it out!

The Dawn of Dough: Flatbreads in Ancient Rome and Beyond

Imagine strolling through a bustling Roman marketplace, the air thick with the earthy scent of wood-fired ovens and freshly baked bread. Among the many offerings, you would have found panis focacius, a rustic flatbread often seasoned with fragrant herbs and drizzled with golden olive oil. This wasn’t pizza in the modern sense—it conspicuously lacked the essential ingredient of tomatoes, which would not arrive in Europe for centuries—but it served as a vital ancestor, a foundational canvas for future culinary innovations. These early creations were like the blank pages in a cookbook, ready to be adorned with whatever ingredients were at hand.

Another notable Roman flatbread was pinsa, its name deriving from the Latin word “pinsere,” meaning “to press” or “to pound,” referring to the method of flattening the dough. Crafted from a blend of water, various grains, and salt, this delightful flatbread was hand-pressed into an oval shape. Its unique preparation involved a fermentation period lasting several days, a process that contributed to its distinctive texture before it was cooked on hot stones or atop glowing ashes. The Romans even enjoyed moretum, a flavorful cheese spread made with herbs, garlic, and olive oil. The poet Virgil, in his epic Aeneid, recounts soldiers using flatbreads as edible plates, highlighting their versatility and widespread use. Ancient Romans also utilized garum, a fermented fish sauce, as a common condiment, suggesting a wide array of savory toppings and flavor profiles for their flatbreads. While these flatbreads were far simpler affairs, lacking the vibrant tang of a tomato base, their undeniable connection to the global phenomenon we call pizza is clear.

Beyond Rome, the concept of topping flatbreads was widespread in antiquity. In the 6th century BCE, Persian soldiers under Darius the Great baked flatbreads with cheese and dates on their battle shields. Ancient Greeks made plakous, a flatbread flavored with herbs, onion, cheese, and garlic, sometimes topped with fruit puree. Other ancient Mediterranean flatbreads that survive today, like the Greek pita, Levantine manakish, Catalan coca, and Italian focaccia and piadina, demonstrate this widespread tradition. These diverse culinary practices underscore that while the specific “pizza” as we know it is Italian, the foundational idea of a topped flatbread is a universal human innovation.

Naples Rises: The Tomato’s Arrival and Pizza’s True Birth

Fast forward to 16th to mid-18th-century Naples, a city brimming with culinary ingenuity. This era witnessed a game-changing event: the arrival of the tomato from the Americas. For a considerable time after its introduction to Europe, many perceived the tomato as poisonous, much like other fruits from the nightshade family. However, the resilient working classes of Naples, ever resourceful, gradually embraced it. When these vibrant red fruits were spread upon local flatbreads, a quiet culinary revolution began. This seemingly simple act—combining yeast-based dough, the tang of tomatoes, and a few other local ingredients—marked the true genesis of modern pizza.

While the word “pizza” itself has earlier roots, appearing in historical records as early as 997 CE in Gaeta, Italy, Naples truly became its crucible. Documents from the State Archive of Naples reveal 54 pizzerias in existence by 1807, increasing to 120 by the second half of the 19th century. In 1830, the very first pizzeria with tables, Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba, opened its doors in Naples, transforming a humble street food into a fixed establishment. Just three years later, in 1833, Antonio la Vecchia opened Le stanze di Piazza Carità, now known as Mattozzi. By 1843, the renowned writer Alexandre Dumas was already documenting the fascinating diversity of pizza toppings available in the bustling Neapolitan city. From these humble, often working-class beginnings, an art form was born, evolving into iconic varieties like the Pizza Marinara, typically featuring tomato, garlic, oregano, and olive oil, traditionally prepared by seamen’s wives for their returning husbands.

The Margherita Myth and Neapolitan Authenticity

The iconic Pizza Margherita, widely believed to have been created in 1889 by baker Raffaele Esposito to honor Queen Margherita of Savoy with its patriotic colors of tomato (red), mozzarella (white), and basil (green), has become a cornerstone of pizza lore. While this story is charming and widely recounted, some culinary historians and researchers cast doubt on its authenticity. Records suggest a similar tomato-and-cheese flatbread existed much earlier; “The most popular and famous pizzas from Naples were the ‘Marinara’, created in 1734, and the ‘Margherita’, which dates from 1796–1810.” Furthermore, contemporary media did not report on the supposed royal visit, and the tale gained prominence only in the 1930s-40s. Regardless of its exact origin, the Margherita solidified Neapolitan pizza’s place in the culinary world, capturing the very essence of simplicity and high-quality ingredients.

So profound is this tradition that in 1984, the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (True Neapolitan Pizza Association – AVPN) was founded. This esteemed organization diligently protects the traditions of authentic Neapolitan pizza, enforcing strict rules regarding ingredients, techniques, and even the types of wood-fired ovens used. Their guidelines stipulate that the pizza must be baked in a wood-fired, domed oven; the base must be hand-kneaded without mechanical means; and the pizza must not exceed 35 centimeters in diameter or be more than one-third of a centimeter thick at the center. Moreover, many famous pizzerias in Naples, such as Da Michele, Port’Alba, and Brandi, adhere to even stricter standards, often using only San Marzano tomatoes grown on the slopes of Mount Vesuvius and adding olive oil and tomato topping in a specific clockwise direction. In December 2017, this culinary art was officially inscribed on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists, recognizing the unique role of the pizzaiuolo (pizza maker) in preserving this tradition.

Pizza’s Global Ascent: From Italy to the World Stage

In the late 19th century, Italian immigrants, seeking new lives, carried their cherished pizza recipes across the Atlantic to the United States. Lombardi’s in New York City, established in 1905 (though operating as a grocery with tomato pies since 1897), is often cited as one of the first pizzerias in the U.S., quickly becoming a magnet for both Italian communities and curious Americans, including famed tenor Enrico Caruso. This marked the beginning of pizza’s American journey.

Post-World War II, as American veterans returned home from the Italian Campaign with a newfound appreciation for this “foreign” dish, pizza’s popularity exploded. By the 1950s, it was popular enough to be featured in an episode of I Love Lucy. This led to the proliferation of countless neighborhood pizzerias and the rise of large chain restaurants, making pizza accessible to every corner of the nation. Iconic regional styles emerged, such as the thin-crust New Haven-style (pioneered by Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana in 1925), the hearty Chicago deep-dish (invented by Ike Sewell and Ric Riccardo at Pizzeria Uno in 1943), and the distinctive Trenton-style Tomato Pies (Joe’s Tomato Pies in 1910, Papa’s Tomato Pies in 1912). Leading early pizza chains like Shakey’s Pizza (1954), Pizza Hut (1958), and Little Caesars (1959) transformed pizza into a fast-food staple. Today, 13% of the US population consumes pizza on any given day, underscoring its ubiquity.

Global neighbors like Canada also swiftly embraced the trend, with Montreal’s Pizzeria Napoletana opening its doors in 1948. Throughout the 1960s, pizza gained popularity, with many pizzerias and restaurants establishing themselves across the country. Canada developed its own distinct “Canadian” pizza, typically featuring tomato sauce, mozzarella, pepperoni, mushrooms, and side bacon (not “Canadian bacon”). Quebec even boasts “Pizza-ghetti,” a unique combination meal of pizza and spaghetti, or even spaghetti used as a pizza topping. Major Canadian brands like Boston Pizza and Pizza Pizza now thrive alongside international giants. The adaptability of pizza is truly astonishing. It seamlessly integrates into diverse culinary cultures, giving rise to unique regional styles. What began as a humble flatbread thousands of years ago, transformed by the Neapolitan embrace of the tomato, has journeyed from local delicacy to a global phenomenon, constantly evolving while retaining its core appeal. Is there any other dish that unites so many different palates across the world quite like pizza?

A Modern Roman Revival: Understanding Today’s Roman-Style Pizza

While ancient Romans enjoyed various flatbreads, the “Roman-style pizza” we discuss today, including pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) and pizza tonda (whole round pizzas with a thin base), represents a distinct modern culinary interpretation. Unlike its Neapolitan counterpart, which is characterized by a soft, pliable crust, modern Roman-style pizza emphasizes a thin, exceptionally light, airy, and crisp crust—often described by the onomatopoeic Romanesco adjective scrocchiarella. This signature crispness is largely achieved through the addition of olive oil to its high-hydration dough, combined with a meticulous, extended fermentation process.

There are two primary forms of modern Roman pizza. Pizza tonda is the thin-base round pizza commonly found in sit-down restaurants across Rome and much of central Italy. It’s sometimes referred to as pizza bassa (‘short pizza’) to distinguish it from the pizza alta (‘tall pizza’ – the Neapolitan style). Pizza al taglio, on the other hand, is typically baked in large rectangular trays, boasts a slightly thicker base similar to focaccia, and is sold by weight as a casual, takeaway dish. Its remarkable versatility in toppings and relative ease of preparation in standard ovens have significantly contributed to its rising popularity globally.

The essence of modern Roman-style pizza lies in its marriage of historical influence with contemporary innovation. The careful balance between traditional ingredients, such as vibrant San Marzano tomatoes and creamy mozzarella, with creative, modern toppings is paramount. Achieving the desired crispness and airy texture, however, necessitates meticulous attention to dough hydration and an extended, cold fermentation process.

Crafting Authentic Roman-Style Pizza at Home: A Detailed Guide

Ready to try your hand at this Roman-inspired dish? Here’s a simplified guide to achieving that signature Roman-style pizza at home:

Dough Preparation: Begin by mixing high-quality flour (such as a strong bread flour or Italian ’00’ flour), ample water (aim for 70-80% hydration relative to flour weight), a very small amount of active dry yeast, and fine sea salt. Knead until a smooth, somewhat sticky dough forms.
Extended Cold Fermentation: This is critical. Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, cover, and allow it to ferment for an extended period, typically 24 to 72 hours, in the refrigerator. This slow process is essential for developing complex flavors, improving digestibility, and creating the airy internal structure. Punch down the dough gently once or twice during this period.
Gentle Shaping: Once ready, gently turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface. Unlike traditional Neapolitan pizza that is vigorously stretched, Roman-style dough is gently pressed and stretched into a rectangular or oval shape, preserving the delicate air bubbles formed during fermentation. Avoid overworking the dough.
Thoughtful Topping: Add your chosen ingredients with care, ensuring they complement the dough without making it soggy. A thin layer of quality tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella (drained thoroughly), and a drizzle of olive oil are classic. From simple combinations to more innovative creations, the rectangular shape of pizza al taglio allows for diverse topping zones.
High-Heat Baking: Preheat your oven to its highest possible temperature (500-550°F / 260-290°C) with a pizza stone or steel inside for at least 30-60 minutes. Carefully transfer the shaped and topped pizza to the hot stone/steel. The goal is a golden-brown, exceptionally crispy crust with a soft, airy interior, typically achieved in 8-15 minutes depending on your oven.

The Roman-Style Pizza Advantage: Pros and Cons

Pros	Cons
Exceptional Crispness: The resulting crust is famously scrocchiarella, offering a satisfying, shattering crispness with a light, airy interior due to high hydration and olive oil.	Dough Sensitivity: Mastering the high-hydration dough can be challenging; it’s stickier and requires specific handling techniques to avoid deflating the critical air bubbles.
Immense Topping Versatility: Its robust yet light base accommodates a wide array of toppings, from rich meats to delicate vegetables, allowing for diverse flavor combinations.	Time-Consuming Fermentation: While mostly hands-off, the extended cold fermentation process (24-72 hours) demands significant advance planning.
Accessibility for Home Bakers: Roman-style pizza is relatively easy to prepare in a standard home oven, especially compared to the ultra-high heat required for authentic Neapolitan pizza.	Precision in Hydration: Achieving the precise level of hydration in the dough can be tricky for home bakers without experience, impacting final texture.
Ideal for Sharing: Its rectangular shape, particularly for pizza al taglio, makes it perfect for sharing at social gatherings, as it’s easy to cut and distribute among a group.	Ingredient Quality is Paramount: Given the relative simplicity of optimal toppings for this style, the quality of each ingredient (flour, tomatoes, cheese) is paramount; subpar components will noticeably diminish the final product.
Convenient & Casual: Designed to be eaten by hand, cut into slices or squares, making it a convenient and casual option for various meals and informal gatherings, from quick lunches to parties.	Learning Curve: While accessible, achieving truly authentic scrocchiarella requires practice and understanding of dough dynamics, especially effective stretching without tearing.

For home cooks aspiring to elevate their Roman pizza game, experimenting with specific flour types designed for high-hydration doughs and focusing on fresh, quality toppings can make a significant difference. Consider exploring online resources or workshops dedicated to Roman-style pizza to master advanced dough handling techniques and achieve optimal oven temperature control, further enhancing your culinary creations. The journey of pizza, from ancient flatbreads to diverse modern styles, is a testament to culinary ingenuity and enduring human connection through food.